Why did the delicacy lost in the Song Dynasty become popular in Japan?

2020-11-20 | Reading Original |

Although most people think that "eating" is something they are accustomed to, but in ancient China, it is an extravagant thing.

Even in the Tang Dynasty, ordinary people had two meals a day, the princes and officials had three meals a day, and the emperor had four meals a day.

Eating a few meals a day is a status symbol at that time.

Why is this because of the real scarcity.

At first, ordinary people not only couldn't eat meat, they even had a single vegetarian diet. Except for grains, they were mostly wild vegetables.

Later, Chinese history has undergone the "Tang and Song Great Changes", and the social landscape has undergone a particularly big change, especially in diet. Chinese food began to transition from scarcity to abundance.


From heroic to refined, from full to well eaten

The introduction of improved varieties of rice, the development of farmland, careful breeding, and the promotion of deep plowing techniques have allowed people to get richer gifts from nature, and crops create more abundant food materials.

The eating habits of civilians evolved from two meals to three meals during this period.

On the other hand, before the Tang Dynasty, ethnic minorities entered the Central Plains, and the living habits of Han and Hu people continued to merge. Tang Dynasty nobles were very keen on Hu people’s food.

In the Song Dynasty, the discrimination and transformation of various kinds of Hu food culture in the previous dynasty gradually made them "sinicized", and finally transitioned from the heroic and rough of the Tang Dynasty to the delicate and delicate.

People who have gotten rid of the threat of hunger have more leisure time and a more calm mind to ponder food, study cooking methods, and invent various kinds of food to satisfy the enjoyment on the tip of the tongue.

This even attracted the participation of literati and doctors, such as the most perfect character in Chinese history-Su Shi.

Broiled pork, the most common dish in Chinese recipes, today people believe that it was Su Shi invented in Huangzhou, this delicacy is also named "Dongpo Meat".

Lin Hong, a native of the Southern Song Dynasty who was born a hundred years later than Su Shi, was another gourmet in the Song Dynasty. He was keen on expeditions on the tip of his tongue and once wandered in the mountains to find delicious ingredients.

"Shan Jia Qing Gong" is Lin Hong's work on delicacies. The book contains various foods made from wild vegetables, mushrooms, fruits, and animals from the mountains, and introduces the ingredients and ingredients of these mountain delicacies.Cooking method.

Hold the thinly sliced ​​hare meat with chopsticks, shove it in the steaming soup, and immediately turn it into a cloud-like color, and then dip it in the sauce water made of "wine sauce and pepper".A more delicious and spicy taste immediately activates the taste buds.

Lin Hong named this cooking method "Boxia Gong".

Subsequently, the "Pixia Offering" was introduced into the market from the mountains and the wild, and people got the inspiration to create delicious food from it. The word "shabu" was widely used on the dining table. Not only the rabbit meat, other pieces of meat and vegetables can be cooked at once., Dipping sauce to eat it. This method is passed down to today, and people call it "shabu hot pot."


The development of the catering industry in Song Dynasty

It can be seen that the cooking skills of the Song Dynasty were already quite superb.

The cooking techniques that any chef must be familiar with today, such as cooking, roasting, roasting, frying, blasting, simmering, boiling, stewing, braising, steaming, waxing, honey, onion pulling, etc., have matured in the Song Dynasty.

The emphasis on food really promoted the prosperity of the catering industry at that time, and also brought competition between catering in the city.

The tableware such as cups, plates, tableware and chopsticks in the Kaifeng restaurant began to be gradually complete, and various dishes were competing for beauty. At that time, the famous paintings were popular in Zhaopor advertising, and even the means of holiday promotion were definitely not worse than modern ones.

In 1997, "Life Magazine" of the United States returned to the 100 major events that have affected human life in the past 1000 years. China has 6 selected, of which Kaifeng restaurants and snacks in the Song Dynasty ranked 56th.

In "The Picture of Shanghe River on Qingming Festival", restaurants, eateries, restaurants, and tea shops abound, and there are more than forty restaurants that can be identified.

In such a prosperous market, even the emperor in the imperial city will be fascinated by the lights in the sky in the middle of the night.

"The house of market brokers usually only buy food and drink in the city without buying home vegetables." At that time, the restaurants were blooming everywhere, and the rich people also developed the habit of going to restaurants frequently, and seldom bought vegetables and cooked them homeIt's dinner.

Moreover, after dinner, you don’t have to worry about not being able to return home like in the Tang Dynasty. There will be a night market at any time, and you can go home leisurely after eating. This is really envy of the Tang people.

In addition to the night market, there were even takeaways at that time.

And it is worth mentioning that, not to mention the official houses, even in the market restaurants, the tableware used is gold and silver, and even glass and jade. The store is not afraid of being stolen, and the food is delivered.After visiting the shop, the shop will visit again in a few days to retrieve the tableware.

If you encounter a big banquet, the three kinds of "chopsticks", "stop chopsticks" and "slag bucket" are indispensable. The tableware is like this, not to mention the decoration of the store, it is quiet and elegant, very literatitemperament.

Unlike the Tang Dynasty, there is a difference between the market and the market. Because there are no many taboos, the diet in Song City becomes more colorful. But in terms of its diet, it is not too "down-to-earth".

Reading Song people's notes on diet, "Or use cooking to talk about metaphysics, or fake wine and delicacies as a metaphor for philosophy of life, or send Mili Maixiu's sorrow to market food, or devote the ingenuity of literary poetry and heart to feeding".

In the Song people’s diet, there are not only color, fragrance, but also politics, life, mystery, Taoism, etc., they give food a more unique and profound culture and artistic conception, such as the humble fried dough sticks!

"Food is evolving, burnt and fenfen", "There is beauty in everything, but beauty is not perfect", the Song Dynasty's cuisine pursues art, and has its own unique style. Compared with Huhua's Tang food, the Song Dynasty admires diet moreLight.

This kind of lightness is not because they don't like heavy words, but it represents the pure and beautiful personality of the literati and doctors in the Song Dynasty, and it is also a kind of elegant life taste. Among them, the most representative is the flower delicacy.

Flower delicacies, dishes or snacks made of four seasons flowers, are typical "don't eat broken belly, but eat out of mood."

This kind of light diet among literati and doctors reflects their understanding of life and its conservation.

Song people have a strong idea of ​​valuing health. Health preservation is an important activity in Song people’s daily life. Eating flowers is one of the ways of health preservation.

Lin Hong’s "Shanjia Qingbao" directly conveys Song people’s dietary aesthetics.

"Qing" here means not only the taste is light, but also too many condiments should not be artificially added to disturb the taste experience of the true color of the food. Adding ornamental flowers to the dishes can deplete the taste and increase the freshness.

In the Song people’s eyes, life itself has value and has nothing to do with external evaluation.

Just like Song paintings, rivers and mountains are beautiful, so are birds and fallen leaves.

Any creature should not trample on wantonly, this is respect for life.

Mr. Dongpo was once imprisoned and was almost killed. After he was released from prison, he stopped killing. This was not for the purpose of cultivating the afterlife, but for not wanting to "have a life or something" to feel that he had personally experienced death.The fear. This kind of temperament of pushing oneself to others, and from others to things is also extremely rare.

A cup of tea, a little flower delicacy, coupled with plain-colored porcelain, such simplicity and texture are the daily life of Song people, and it is the landscape in their hearts. All the softness and elegance are also carefully deliveredThree meals a day.

Food is the heaven for the people. Mr. Wang Zengqi once said, "Eating from all directions, but a bowl of fireworks on the earth". From the delicacy of the Song Dynasty, "to see the leopard", the happiness index of Song people's life must be the best in all dynasties.

Rediscovering the Song Dynasty is actually more conducive to our "root seeking" journey.

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